LUME
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EST. MMXXVI LUME Local time

03 / Movement

A closer look at what the dial keeps hidden.

The mechanics under the dial, one piece at a time: escapement, chronograph, GMT, hairspring.

7 stories
The two hammers of a Patek Philippe minute repeater
The two polished hammers are visible on the left of the dial. Only slender arcs of the surrounding gongs can be seen, yet they produce the watch's two voices. Photograph: Patek Philippe .
Movement 10 min

The watch that tells the time in the dark

A minute repeater builds a complete time from two notes. We follow how the movement reads the hands and turns a wristwatch into a tiny musical instrument.

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The semicircular rotor of a Grand Seiko automatic movement
Mass is concentrated along the rotor's outer arc, allowing it to turn relative to the movement even when the case moves only slightly. Photo: Grand Seiko , background removed.
Movement 9 min

The half-circle that winds a watch while you walk

An automatic rotor does not generate energy. It collects motion from the wrist. Here is how that motion reaches the mainspring, and what happens when the watch is full.

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The Worldtimer dial up close
The twenty-four city names, the day and night disc, and the engraved world map. Photo: Frederique Constant (frederiqueconstant.com).
Movement 10 min

The world timer: how the whole planet fits on one dial

There was a time when every town kept its own hour. Then the trains arrived and order had to be imposed. And a Geneva watchmaker worked out how a single dial could show all twenty-four zones.

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The Grand Seiko 9R Spring Drive caliber, with a silver plate and blued screws
The 9R Spring Drive caliber: at the end of the gear train, the glide wheel, in place of an escapement. Photo: Grand Seiko (grand-seiko.com)
Movement 9 min

Neither quartz nor mechanical: the Grand Seiko Spring Drive

There is a watch with no battery, yet a quartz crystal inside. It has no escapement, yet a mainspring drives it, and its seconds hand glides perfectly. This is Spring Drive, and it took one engineer 28 years.

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The Zenith El Primero calibre 400 with the column wheel marked: a ring of blued steel pillars around a retaining screw
The Zenith El Primero calibre 400. The coupling lever's beak rests on the ring of pillars from the right. Highlight added by Lume. Photo: Monochrome Watches (monochrome-watches.com)
Movement 8 min

The column wheel: how a chronograph decides to start

From the outside a chronograph is simple: press it, it runs; press it, it stops. Inside, though, something has to sequence all of that precisely. The finest solution is a tiny, turret-like wheel.

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